Early days in Italy
Travelling has been pretty much seamless –up until our journey from Arles to Vernazza. We were prepared for a long day. A car ride to Avignon to return our rental car followed by several tradfins to Vernazza was all part of the plan. Unfortunately, the second of five trains was delayed by over an hour because the AC was broken. So we waited patiently in the sauna-like car praying for either a new train or swift repairs. Our answer came in the form of a new engine car that fixed the AC problem. We made it to the Genoa Central station but missed the connecting train to get to Genoa Nervi on a local line. So we hopped in a cab and sped across town. Genoa is a long narrow city with 18 train stations along the length of the city. The cab ride was almost better than Disney! Cabbies have their own lanes in some parts of Genoa. We passed police vehicles and made it to our next connection on time. Whew! Weary and unable to understand Italian, we got off this next train at the incorrect station. We had to take a few more trains to reach our final destination. Thankfully, we were rewarded with some wonderful vistas in Vernazza.
Travelling has been pretty much seamless –up until our journey from Arles to Vernazza. We were prepared for a long day. A car ride to Avignon to return our rental car followed by several tradfins to Vernazza was all part of the plan. Unfortunately, the second of five trains was delayed by over an hour because the AC was broken. So we waited patiently in the sauna-like car praying for either a new train or swift repairs. Our answer came in the form of a new engine car that fixed the AC problem. We made it to the Genoa Central station but missed the connecting train to get to Genoa Nervi on a local line. So we hopped in a cab and sped across town. Genoa is a long narrow city with 18 train stations along the length of the city. The cab ride was almost better than Disney! Cabbies have their own lanes in some parts of Genoa. We passed police vehicles and made it to our next connection on time. Whew! Weary and unable to understand Italian, we got off this next train at the incorrect station. We had to take a few more trains to reach our final destination. Thankfully, we were rewarded with some wonderful vistas in Vernazza.
Vernazza is perhaps the prettiest of the Cinques Terres. The five villages are perched at the base of cliffs and accessible by boat, train, or hiking trails. From Vernazza, you can hike to Monterroso in one direction or to Corniglia in the other. The hike to Corniglia is the easier of the two hikes –relatively speaking-so we decided to tackle this one. Essentially, the trail climbs a mountain and then goes back down again. We met a great couple from Newfoundland- Meghan and Ryan- about a third of the way along the hike. We stopped and had a cool drink with Meghan and Ryan at the halfway bar and then had lunch together in Corniglia. They were lovely to chat with and share stories of both travel and home. No stairmaster needed in these villages! We climbed SO MANY stairs- and loved every minute of it. There is a lovely laid-back vibe to Vernazza-long meals, strolls through town (with an evening drink), swims, boat rides, and challenging hikes (with lots of pauses to admire the view.) Jason and I will return to Vernazza again.
LE BOAT HOLIDAY -August 1st to 8th
Tonight we are docked on Mazzaboro Island, just a short walk across a foot-bridge to Burano Island. There is a fireworks display across the Venetian Lagoon tonight. We have no idea why but it seems a fitting way to celebrate the day. We are now boaters. For the next 6 days, we are living on a 36 foot holiday boat. (Did I mention we have no prior boating experience?) After a morning at an orientation program, the staff at Le Boat handed us the keys. Incredible, really. Since this morning, Crew Lee has cruised five hours down the Sile River. We have docked twice and have even navigated a loch!
The Sile River is quiet and calm. We all had a turn at the wheel! Parking and navigation has required teamwork and clear communication –especially in the tricky parts. After the close quarters of the treehouse and the 1 room rental in Vernazza, the river boat feels quite spacious. It has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen and living area. There is also the outdoor deck and the great outdoors! This afternoon we docked at Casier where we were met by an older gentleman who drove us to his pizzeria for lunch and then to the grocery store. (Side note: grocery shopping has been an adventure in every country.) Tomorrow we tour Burano and then head to Venice.
The Sile River is quiet and calm. We all had a turn at the wheel! Parking and navigation has required teamwork and clear communication –especially in the tricky parts. After the close quarters of the treehouse and the 1 room rental in Vernazza, the river boat feels quite spacious. It has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen and living area. There is also the outdoor deck and the great outdoors! This afternoon we docked at Casier where we were met by an older gentleman who drove us to his pizzeria for lunch and then to the grocery store. (Side note: grocery shopping has been an adventure in every country.) Tomorrow we tour Burano and then head to Venice.
AUGUST 3rd-4th -BURANO ISLAND
Day 5- Burano – Early morning
The clink of teaspoons in early morning coffee. The swish of a broom. These are the sounds of Burano as the sun rises. Behind shuttered windows, the people of Burano prepare for another day of tourists. How strange it must be to have your home photographed all day! These empty streets will be filled with people in a few hours. This morning I have the privilege of sharing the streets with the street sweeps, a handful of early risers and a black cat!
Later today, we will visit Venice…
The clink of teaspoons in early morning coffee. The swish of a broom. These are the sounds of Burano as the sun rises. Behind shuttered windows, the people of Burano prepare for another day of tourists. How strange it must be to have your home photographed all day! These empty streets will be filled with people in a few hours. This morning I have the privilege of sharing the streets with the street sweeps, a handful of early risers and a black cat!
Later today, we will visit Venice…
Day 5 - Venice
When I snapped a photo of the water buses going to and from Burano this morning, I could not have anticipated the hustle and bustle of Venice. Hustle and bustle indeed! We left our boat at the quiet and somewhat isolated mooring on Vignole Island and took water buses in and around Venice this afternoon and into the evening. From the water bus, we got a close up view of the traffic on the Grand Canal-private boats, gondolas, taxis, buses and even a few yachts! Holiday boat rentals are forbidden on the Grand Canal. (That would be allowing an inexperienced PEI driver on the 401 in Toronto during rush hour.) And while the waterways are brimming with boats, the sidewalks overflow with people.
Venice itself is comprised of 17 (or maybe 18) different islands. The islands are connected by walking bridges. There is a labyrinth of small walking paths on each of the islands so getting a bit lost in Venice is almost a given.
Here was our checklist of things to do in Venice:
When I snapped a photo of the water buses going to and from Burano this morning, I could not have anticipated the hustle and bustle of Venice. Hustle and bustle indeed! We left our boat at the quiet and somewhat isolated mooring on Vignole Island and took water buses in and around Venice this afternoon and into the evening. From the water bus, we got a close up view of the traffic on the Grand Canal-private boats, gondolas, taxis, buses and even a few yachts! Holiday boat rentals are forbidden on the Grand Canal. (That would be allowing an inexperienced PEI driver on the 401 in Toronto during rush hour.) And while the waterways are brimming with boats, the sidewalks overflow with people.
Venice itself is comprised of 17 (or maybe 18) different islands. The islands are connected by walking bridges. There is a labyrinth of small walking paths on each of the islands so getting a bit lost in Venice is almost a given.
Here was our checklist of things to do in Venice:
- Chase Pigeons
- Catch a Pigeon
- Take a water bus
- Get Lost
- See the gondola rides
- Get Found
- Visit San Marco Church
- Eat Gelato
Day 6 –Cruising to Chioggia
Today was a perfect day. We cruised south and docked mid-afternoon on Pellestrina Island. We were drawn by the streamers and other decorations in the waterfront square. A poster headline read: “300 ANNI DI VITA SPIRITUALE CON LA MADONNA DELL’APPARIZIONE.” (1716-4 AGOSTO-2016). Now, my Italian isn’t good but I believe this means we landed in Pellestrina on the 300th anniversary of the apparition of the Virgin Mary. (Further observation would lead me to believe that my translation was exactly correct.) As we walked through the town, we found shrines dedicated to the Holy Mother in every yard. We meandered down the waterfront until we came to an event with light security. There were many priests and dignitaries present. I took a photo of a priest who I believe is a Cardinal. (So we may just have seen the next Pope about 2m away from us!) Next stop- Chioggia…
Today was a perfect day. We cruised south and docked mid-afternoon on Pellestrina Island. We were drawn by the streamers and other decorations in the waterfront square. A poster headline read: “300 ANNI DI VITA SPIRITUALE CON LA MADONNA DELL’APPARIZIONE.” (1716-4 AGOSTO-2016). Now, my Italian isn’t good but I believe this means we landed in Pellestrina on the 300th anniversary of the apparition of the Virgin Mary. (Further observation would lead me to believe that my translation was exactly correct.) As we walked through the town, we found shrines dedicated to the Holy Mother in every yard. We meandered down the waterfront until we came to an event with light security. There were many priests and dignitaries present. I took a photo of a priest who I believe is a Cardinal. (So we may just have seen the next Pope about 2m away from us!) Next stop- Chioggia…
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Day 7 –Chioggia
We like Chioggia. We discovered an internet café just 100m away from our mooring. So, we all watched the sunset and the kids had a chance to connect with friends at home. We have been travelling since July 14th-3 weeks. The kids are getting a bit homesick. (After the hot, busy day in Venice, I think we all wanted to be at home truthfully.) So I am glad we were blessed with a perfect day on the water and an evening with internet access. Isabelle and Matthew certainly enjoy the adventure more when they can talk to their friends via facetime and Instagram. (Matthew and Nick mostly talk about the time difference and what they are doing right now at this exact moment.) …Isabelle got some exciting news last night -she made the competitive dance team at 24dance. Isabelle radiates joy when she is dancing so we are very happy for her. To celebrate, Jason and I taste-tested the Venetian Spritz. This is a lovely sweet drink shared by locals before dinner. The kids had Sprite and Milkshakes.
While I am up early looking at photos and writing, Jason has surprised me by getting up early too. He is on the hunt for the Chioggia Fish Market. We hope to take the kids there later this morning if he can find it.
We like Chioggia. We discovered an internet café just 100m away from our mooring. So, we all watched the sunset and the kids had a chance to connect with friends at home. We have been travelling since July 14th-3 weeks. The kids are getting a bit homesick. (After the hot, busy day in Venice, I think we all wanted to be at home truthfully.) So I am glad we were blessed with a perfect day on the water and an evening with internet access. Isabelle and Matthew certainly enjoy the adventure more when they can talk to their friends via facetime and Instagram. (Matthew and Nick mostly talk about the time difference and what they are doing right now at this exact moment.) …Isabelle got some exciting news last night -she made the competitive dance team at 24dance. Isabelle radiates joy when she is dancing so we are very happy for her. To celebrate, Jason and I taste-tested the Venetian Spritz. This is a lovely sweet drink shared by locals before dinner. The kids had Sprite and Milkshakes.
While I am up early looking at photos and writing, Jason has surprised me by getting up early too. He is on the hunt for the Chioggia Fish Market. We hope to take the kids there later this morning if he can find it.
DAY 8 -August 8th -Chioggia Revisited
Getting groceries, cooking meals, washing dishes, and doing laundry are oddly comforting tasks when travelling for a long time. We stayed an extra night in Chioggia. In part, we stayed because Chioggia is a charming island. But we also stayed because our mooring is in a safe and convenient location. The grocery store and fresh outdoor markets are a five minute walk away. The marina across the canal allows holiday boaters like us to fill up our water tank for a mere five euros. The beautiful Hotel Italia’s indoor/outdoor lounge bar has free wifi and is only twenty steps away. And a great little pizzeria is twenty steps in the opposite direction.
We weathered our first rain in the safely of the Chioggia Harbor. In fact, this was the first rain of our entire trip. Boy! Did it rain! The four of us snuggled in bed together to count: “One-one thousand, two-one thousand, three-one thousand…how far away is the lighting now?” The storm reminded me of the nights my family lived in a one-room cottage on the Red Head Road in Morell. The lighting would light up sky and the entire cottage. This morning the sun is shining with nothing but blue skies in the forecast for the remainder of our time on the boat.
Side note: Our plastic patio table blew away yesterday- right off the boat and is now likely floating somewhere in the Venetian Lagoon. There is a good story brewing in this event. When the tale has steeped long enough, we’ll share.
Getting groceries, cooking meals, washing dishes, and doing laundry are oddly comforting tasks when travelling for a long time. We stayed an extra night in Chioggia. In part, we stayed because Chioggia is a charming island. But we also stayed because our mooring is in a safe and convenient location. The grocery store and fresh outdoor markets are a five minute walk away. The marina across the canal allows holiday boaters like us to fill up our water tank for a mere five euros. The beautiful Hotel Italia’s indoor/outdoor lounge bar has free wifi and is only twenty steps away. And a great little pizzeria is twenty steps in the opposite direction.
We weathered our first rain in the safely of the Chioggia Harbor. In fact, this was the first rain of our entire trip. Boy! Did it rain! The four of us snuggled in bed together to count: “One-one thousand, two-one thousand, three-one thousand…how far away is the lighting now?” The storm reminded me of the nights my family lived in a one-room cottage on the Red Head Road in Morell. The lighting would light up sky and the entire cottage. This morning the sun is shining with nothing but blue skies in the forecast for the remainder of our time on the boat.
Side note: Our plastic patio table blew away yesterday- right off the boat and is now likely floating somewhere in the Venetian Lagoon. There is a good story brewing in this event. When the tale has steeped long enough, we’ll share.
Final days in Italy
We spent the last two days (August 6,7) on the boat retracing our course back from Chioggia to the Le Boat base camp across the Venice lagoon and up the Sile River. Saturday we saw an incredible sailboat on the journey to Burano. Lots of other boats tried to get a closer look at it as well so they made a guest appearance in our photos. Then we motored past Venice but the chop from the other boats was great so we did not linger at the mouth of the Grand Canal long. We moored for the night in Burano and helped a family from Holland tie up on their first day (we being experienced boaters at this point). This time the shops were open in Burano and we did a little souvenir shopping. The blown glass and the homemade lace is something to see. We all watched glass jewelry being made.
We spent the last two days (August 6,7) on the boat retracing our course back from Chioggia to the Le Boat base camp across the Venice lagoon and up the Sile River. Saturday we saw an incredible sailboat on the journey to Burano. Lots of other boats tried to get a closer look at it as well so they made a guest appearance in our photos. Then we motored past Venice but the chop from the other boats was great so we did not linger at the mouth of the Grand Canal long. We moored for the night in Burano and helped a family from Holland tie up on their first day (we being experienced boaters at this point). This time the shops were open in Burano and we did a little souvenir shopping. The blown glass and the homemade lace is something to see. We all watched glass jewelry being made.
Very calm waters and lots of sun on the Sile River on Sunday– a great way to spend our last day on the boat. Matthew took the helm a few times and we navigated a lock with only one minor incident – we did a 360 in the lock thanks to a strong current. There were lots of swans on the river. Everyone was impressed with the size of these birds -even the babies were bigger than turkeys (and much cuter.) We stopped in the village of Casier for a while but forgot that it was siesta time. The entire village (with the exception of a few restaurants) was shut down. We waited until 3 pm for the gelato shop to open to get our last taste of Italian ice cream. Later we docked for the final time and prepared for another big travel day. Ciao Italia!
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